Yesterday we entered the mouth of the Mighty Amazon. It's width makes it almost impossible to see from side to side. But it is not the size that first hits you - it is the overwhelming smell of countless fires, set by residents to clear land for farming. What smells like destruction and loss of an important ecosystem to us, feels like progress to the residents. On a brighter note, about two dozen Blue and Yellow Macaws flew over the ship just before sunset. That feels like a warm welcome.